Cleo & Nico Roundtrip

11 Mar

Oman Roundtrip with Cleo and Nico

OMAN Roundtrip 2022 / 2023


I’m so excited to share our amazing journey through Oman with you!

Over the course of two weeks, we traveled over 3,500 kilometers, exploring the diverse landscapes and stunning locations that this beautiful country has to offer. I hope that by sharing our experiences, I can help you plan your own trip to Oman. In this blog post, you’ll find practical advice, details, and itinerary descriptions to make your planning process a breeze. And if you have any questions about Oman, don’t worry – I’ve got you covered. Check out the brief Q&A section at the end of this post for more information.I’m so excited to share our amazing journey through Oman with you! Over the course of two weeks, my companions and I traveled over 3,500 kilometers, exploring the diverse landscapes and stunning locations that this beautiful country has to offer. I hope that by sharing our experiences, I can help you plan your own trip to Oman. In this blog post, you’ll find practical advice, details, and itinerary descriptions to make your planning process a breeze. And if you have any questions about Oman, don’t worry – I’ve got you covered. Check out the brief Q&A section at the end of this post for more information.

If you have any questions about our trip, you can send us an email or reach us via DM on Instagram.

The German youtube video

 

During our trip, we utilized a 4×4 vehicle that was equipped with a rooftop tent and camping gear. The tent accommodated two people comfortably.

As camper, we were provided with all the necessary equipment for a comfortable and convenient outdoor experience. The cool box is cooled using ice instead of electricity, while the kitchen box contains all the cooking utensils and a gas cooker. A camping table and chairs, a shovel, tow rope, camping lamp, and a hand-operated shower were also provided. We had a 20-liter water canister as a reserve, as well as pillows, sheets, and a sleeping bag. The roof tent was easy to set up within 4-6 minutes and just as quick to dismantle. The tent was spacious and comfortable, with a mattress that measured 140cm x 240cm. We especially enjoyed the option to open the tent on all four sides, allowing us to enjoy the beautiful scenery while maintaining good ventilation. Overall, we were very satisfied with the vehicle and had everything we needed.

Looking for a spot to camp in Oman? You’re in luck! Wild camping is allowed and offers freedom and spontaneity for adventurers and nature lovers. Oman is known for its safety, so no need to worry about camping in the wilderness at night. However, it’s important to be respectful of the locals by avoiding setting up camp too close to villages. While fires are permitted, they should be made in a suitable place and never left unattended, especially on windy days. Unfortunately, some areas in Oman have litter, so it’s important to set a good example and collect any rubbish you see. You can dispose of your trash in the large black garbage cans scattered throughout the country. When selecting a campsite, it’s important to avoid setting up in the river basin of Wadis because heavy rainfall in the mountains can cause flooding. Instead, choose an elevated spot. Nights in the mountains can get chilly, with temperatures as low as 5 degrees Celsius in January. So, it’s a good idea to pack warm clothing or a hot water bottle to stay cozy.

While camping during your roundtrip in Oman, you can easily purchase sacks of firewood at supermarkets and petrol stations. It’s a great addition to any trip, especially when ending the day around a cozy campfire. After renting a car, we found that the Lulu Hypermarket on Sultan Qaboos St. had a vast selection of groceries. We also discovered vegan options, such as those from Violife, at the Sultan Center on 18th November St.

For those camping with a roof tent, we recommend bringing a headlamp for each person. With the sun setting at 6 p.m., it can be challenging to cook and clean in the dark. A headlamp is a practical solution that keeps your hands free and provides ample light.

If you’re feeling adventurous, Oman offers some exciting dirt and gravel roads in addition to well-developed asphalt roads. There are fantastic routes through wadis and mountains in the north that can be a challenging drive. You can also explore the desert, such as the Wahiba Sand Desert, and camp there while driving off-road through the deep sand. Just remember to lower your tire pressure beforehand!

This is an overview of our route through Oman:

Route Oman

TIP: You can find a detailed view of the individual daily route sections on our Instagram account under the story highlight “Route Oman”.

Day 1 – Arrival

We arrived in the capital of Oman, Muscat, after a 6-hour flight from Frankfurt a. M. (with a time difference of 3 hours). 

Going through the immigration control took over an hour, before we could pick up our luggage. At the airport, we purchased a SIM card for our mobile phone from Omantel, which was a straightforward process. Within minutes, we could use the mobile data (15GB for 12 OMR) with excellent cell phone reception throughout our trip. With a taxi waiting outside, our adventure in Oman began.

Please note that an eVisa is not required for trips to Oman that are less than 14 days. If your trip exceeds 14 days, you must apply for an eVisa online in advance.

We spent our first two nights in the Lana Villa*, a guest house on the outskirts of the city that offers sea views and is right on the beach. The guest house is run by a German who provided us with many useful tips. He also rented us a vehicle with a roof tent for our round trip. The following morning, we enjoyed a delicious breakfast and relaxed in the beautifully designed lounge or on the roof terrace with stunning views.

Day 2 – Muscat

Today, we explored Muscat by taking the bus since we won’t be renting a car until tomorrow. We rode the MWASALAT bus 8 for 300 Baisa per person, then switched to bus 1 for 500 Baisa per person, and finally bus 4 for 300 Baisa per person to reach the Muthra district, which is the most important part of the capital city. The bus system in Muscat is very similar to German public transport. The total cost for two people was approximately €5.50 for a one-way trip to Muthra Souq.

Once we arrived at the port of Muthra, we had a small snack consisting of kebab and falafel at Grills Shawrma juice & grill, a small street restaurant. The food was delicious and we felt energized to explore the Muthra Souq, the market streets of the district. We walked through the souq which is like a labyrinth through many alleys, and we found all kinds of souvenirs to buy, including many Chinese goods, incense stands, and individual authentic shops. However, the market was a bit disappointing because of the quantities of purchased goods and the very intrusive business people waiting for cruise tourists were rather daunting and exhausting.

On the other hand, the ascent to Fort Muthra was definitely worth it! It cost 2 OMR per person, and the sightseeing and views from the fort are wonderful. We enjoyed the sunset over the city, and we learned that Muscat owes its name, “Place of Falling”, to both the anchors of ships falling in the harbor and to the steep mountain slopes around the city districts. To return to our accommodation, we took a taxi. We recommend using the Otaxi app for taxi rides as it is very useful.

We ended our evening in our district at Grilled Fish & Seafood, an Indian seafood restaurant that is very hidden and unassuming. We had a very tasty freshly caught grilled king fish, humus, bread, and salad for 7 OMR.

Day 3 – Wadi Al Arbeieen & Camping at Fins

Our road trip began with an unexpected start: we woke up at 4 a.m. to the sound of heavy rain pouring down. It was a rare occurrence, as Oman only experiences an average of 9 rainy days per year, and it hadn’t rained this heavily in months. The streets quickly flooded, causing traffic to come to a standstill, and some side streets became impassable. Unfortunately, the infrastructure and locals were not prepared for this.

We eventually obtained our 4×4 vehicle with a roof tent around noon, after some delay. The handover and purchase went smoothly, and we swiftly left the Muscat region before the expected return of heavy rain.

Shopping tip:

During our trip, we visited several grocery stores and found the hypermarkets (such as Lulu Hypermarket, Nesto, and Carrefour) to have a great selection of groceries. Additionally, they often have a hot food counter where traditional take-away food can be purchased for a reasonable price.

After our shopping trip, we embarked on our first off-road adventure to Wadi Al Arbeieen. Our journey took us through a scree landscape and deeper into the canyon until we arrived at a rock pool with a small waterfall, surrounded by palm trees. We even crossed several watercourses along the way.

As evening approached, we arrived at Fins and set up our roof tent for the night. We slept directly on the beaches of Fins, enjoying the fresh air and campfire during dinner.

On day four, we woke up early to visit Wadi Al Shab, which was only a few kilometers away. We parked our car under a large bridge and took a motorboat to the other side of the wadi. From there, we hiked through the canyon for about an hour, along the rock edges. At the end of the trail, we reached pools where we could swim. We swam through the various pools for about 20 minutes until we arrived at a narrow crevice. Without hesitation, we swam through the narrow gap until we reached a cave with a waterfall. It was noted that this adventure is only suitable for good swimmers, but it was no problem for us.

Starwatching Private Camp in the middle of the desert

Upon returning to our car, we had a two-hour drive from Sur along the coast to reach the Wahiba Sand Desert. To reach our reserved desert camp, we stopped at a gas station to deflate our tires and drove into the sandy desert with our car’s license plate number plate_number_1. We followed a local guide into the desert and Nico expertly drove us over the dunes until we reached the Starwatching Private Camp*. Along the way, we saw camels roaming around in the isolated dunes.

For those who don’t want to drive through the sand in a 4×4, there’s an option to leave your car at the office and be driven to the camp with a driver.

Upon arrival at the camp, we were greeted by a luxurious tent in the middle of the desert. The tent had its own bathroom with a toilet and shower, which was located in another small tent. Everything was beautifully designed and traditionally furnished. We were warmly welcomed and served traditional Omani coffee with cardamom, tea, lemonade, dates, and nuts in the dining tent. Afterward, we took a stroll over the dunes and enjoyed the peaceful solitude. The sand felt incredibly soft under our bare feet, and the colors of the orange sand against the onset of dusk were breathtaking.

At 7 pm, we were served a traditional Arabic dinner in the dining tent. With the other guests, we enjoyed a variety of appetizers, including salad, hummus, and flatbread. The main course was a feast that included traditional camel meat, chicken, vegetables, rice, and lentil sauce. After dessert, we were completely satisfied and happy. We had pleasant conversations with the other guests and exchanged travel stories about Oman. The evening ended with a campfire under the magnificent starry sky outside our tents.

We were awakened by a beautiful sunrise and enjoyed a rich breakfast that left nothing to be desired. We started the day with renewed energy and excitement.

Private Star Watching Camp

Private Star Watching Camp


Day 5 – further south

On the highway heading south near Sinaw we discover several dead camels on the side of the highway, obviously hit and run over while they tried (at night?) to cross the busy road.

We dare a short detour to Khaluf Beach including an off-road drive in the middle of the beach at the Sugar Dunes just before Duqm. Then it goes to the up-and-coming city of Duqm – recognizable by the fact that it is actually a single construction site. Here we spend the night in a city hotel to charge our technology batteries and to travel through.

Day 6 – Dream pitch on the beach

We leave the hotel early in the morning with the aim of going shopping. Then continue south. Up to an hour before we look for a parking space for the night, the route runs very uneventfully through the boring steppe. But at least we keep coming across camels that make us happy. But then the landscape changes abruptly: A dreamlike road from the plain down to the coast and along the coast and herds of camels on the road directly at the sea.

Shortly before sunset we reach our pitch, which we found using the iOverlander app. The site is right on the sea between dunes. A beautiful place where we immediately feel comfortable and are completely alone. Unfortunately, it is very windy that evening, which is why cooking is a bit cumbersome. But we carry a windbreak to help drain the gas flame. We experience a fantastic starry sky again and enjoy falling asleep to the sound of the sea.

Day 7 – Salalah & Surroundings

We are awakened by a beautiful morning sun over the Arabian Sea.

On this day it goes along the coast into the region around Salalah. First on the 1800m high Jabal Samhan with a wide view of the plain, then to a generally disappointing sinkhole, and finally to Wadi Derbat. It is very green there and turquoise pools and waterfalls that fall down terraces inspire us and seem unreal in this barren landscape. There are also plenty of camels that also feed on the water and are great photo opportunities.

At 3 p.m. we check in at our New Year’s Eve Hotel Belad Bont in Salalah. Pool, dinner and a large chic room (2x upgrade to “Super Deluxe”, as the receptionist emphasizes) are waiting for us. The New Year’s Eve buffet is terrific and exceeds all expectations – traditional dishes that are beautifully prepared are waiting for us and so we end the year 2022 comfortably.

Day 8 – Salalah & Surroundings

While our accommodation remains the same for New Year’s Eve, we only recover a little and start the next tour of discovery. Salalah itself has little to offer, but the flora alone and the rich range of fruit that goes with it are very beautiful and we use them. here there are huge palm plantations with coconut palms and banana trees and in the As Sultan Qaboos Street you can buy delicious fruits and fresh coconuts to drink at numerous fruit stands.

Our excursion today goes a bit further south, it doesn’t get much further south in Oman. At Mughsail Beach we meet many camels right on the beach. It is a unique experience for us and this time we dare to get out and get in touch.

The subsequent rock fountains are unfortunately not accessible due to a construction site, but the zig-zag route takes you over the mountains to the border region with Yemen. Nowhere else on the Arabian Peninsula do war and peace come so close together. On the one hand Oman, the westernmost and safest country, on the other hand Yemen, where there has been a war for years and you should never get too close to the border.

TIP: Here we find a wonderful place, if not the most beautiful camping spot of the trip: off-road, a steep gravel road leads down to the coast, to the beaches of Fayazat. Lonely, turquoise blue sea, sandy beach. Perfect. When we arrive down at the beach we want to go swimming straight away, the beaches are so heavenly beautiful. Here are a few campers in the hidden bays. A few off-road vehicles with German license plates have discovered a small camping paradise here. The detour here is definitely worth it and is ideal for a nice day at the beach and for camping!

Day 9 – Back North – Driving day to Nizwa

The navigation system shows exactly 888 km for the route to be covered today, which should lead us back north. A change of plan ensures that we cover it in one piece and do not stop in between for the night. But we trust ourselves. 3 driver changes, 3 half-full tanks (to be on the safe side in case the nearest gas station is very far away) and a lot of “nothing” later we arrive in Nizwa. There we get food in the supermarket and after a long wandering around in the alleys of the old town we find our accommodation in a traditional bait, a mud house.

Day 10 – Nizwa & the mountain region

The Bait – our accommodation in the old town area of Nizwa – is really very traditional with a great view of the fort from the roof terrace. In the morning we visit the town of Nizwa with its fort and souq. This one is much nicer than the Muthra Souq in Muscat. Spices, clay art, Omani specialities, that’s what we wanted. We feel very comfortable here, you are left completely alone on the market and you can comfortably browse the shops for nice souvenirs. You will also find fantastic photo opportunities here.

During the hot midday we visit a mall for refreshments, a big contrast, here the western, modern Oman pulsates.

Then there is the next contrast. From the Nizwa valley basin, we now head into the surrounding mountains. However, we had imagined the trip to the Jabal Akhdar differently. A two-lane highway leads up into the mountains, where we would have expected a gravel road. Before climbing the steep paved mountain road, you have to pass a police station where our driving licenses are checked. In addition, only cars with 4×4 drives are allowed to drive up here (we don’t quite understand why that is). Even after an hour’s drive, to the last edge where this road leads, street lamps line the route and it is very well developed.

Also settlements can be found up here at 2500m altitude. We find a pitch with a fantastic view, make a campfire and relax. Only the temperature of 5°C in the evening worries us and we prepare hot-water bottles, a contrast to the 30°C just a few hours ago.

Day 11 – Wadi Tanuf & Jabal Shams

We drive past Jibreen Castle and Bahla Fort into Wadi Tanuf. The first off-road adventure for today. The wadi is very beautiful and invites you to take a short break in the shadow of the huge mountains.

Shortly thereafter follows the second off-road adventure with the approach to Jabal Shams. The asphalt road eventually changes to a gravel road. At the top you can see the edge and you can look deep into the canyon. Since that’s not enough off-road track for Nico, we now drive another lap through mountain villages, for the first time Nico and the car are really challenged.

In the late afternoon we arrive in Misfah Al Abriyeen, where the host family of a small holiday apartment will cook for us. The place is on a slope, so that we can still enjoy a great view of the illuminated plain of Nizwa while walking.

Day 12 – Misfah Al Abriyeen

Misfah Al Abriyeen is considered one of the most beautiful, original villages in Oman. In the lower part of the village, individual houses are beautifully hidden in a palm grove. The typical Omani irrigation canals run between rice terraces. Above you can see the old houses, which are probably increasingly being designed for tourism and designed with many coffees.

Then it goes through the mountains again, one last time. But also the most challenging off-road track. From Sharaf Al Alamayn it is steep and bumpy for dozens of kilometers, sometimes at walking pace, down the mountain. Today ends in Wadi Bani Awf, where we spend the last night camping.

Day 13 – Bandar Al Khairan

The morning consists of the return trip to the capital, since there is still enough time to return the rental car, we do something else that we didn’t manage to do due to lack of time on the rainy day:

We drive to the Bandar Al Khairan viewpoint, which, however, is heavily populated by Omanis and Indian guest workers today. This goes so far that people sit on picnic blankets in front of their open trunks filled with food, feeling like they have all their living room furniture with them and listening to music of every genre out of huge loudspeakers. That disturbs the actually so nice ambience very much. Nevertheless, we can highly recommend a detour here – the view is beautiful and you can also go swimming here. In the afternoon we come back to Lana Villa where our journey started.

Day 14 – Snorkeling at Daymaniyat Islands

The alarm clock rings at 6 a.m. Take a taxi to Al Mouj port. There we are welcomed by Lea. She works at Daymanyiat Shells*. Just like Captain Fahad. He steers the Shells II, which takes us along with 8 other adventurous people to the Daymanyiat Islands. After a 45 minute drive we arrived at the snorkeling paradise in the Gulf of Oman.

At two different snorkeling spots we see lots of colorful fish, coral and: sea turtles of different sizes! An absolute highlight for us and the perfect end to the trip. At other times of the year you can even swim with sunfish and whale sharks. We are very enthusiastic about the turtles. The 4.5 hour tour was a lot of fun and we can definitely recommend it!

After a last stop at a secluded, paradisiacal sandy bay with white sand and turquoise blue water, we head back towards Muscat. We spend the rest of the day back at the Lana Villa before we take a taxi to the airport.

 

Q&A Oman

Is a 4×4 rental car absolutely necessary? We have often been asked by the community whether you really need a 4×4 vehicle to travel through Oman. Our answer: The general road network is paved and in very good condition. If you want to look at the mountains in the north or z. For example, the Wahiba Sand Desert is only possible with a 4×4. If it is important for you to visit off-road places with a normal rental car, there are also day tour offers with a driver for almost all sights, which would allow you to still visit the desert or e.g. the mountains at Jebel Shams. But you have to be the type for that. We really wanted to feel free and explore everything completely by ourselves, then you definitely need a 4×4 vehicle! So you couldn’t follow our route 1:1 with a normal rental car.

Is OMAN recommended for women traveling alone? Our answer: We think yes! Oman is a very safe travel destination. I (Cleo), as a woman, felt very comfortable during the trip. Dealing with each other is respectful, you are not chatted up and not stared at. Of course, it’s important to respect dress code and to keep your knees and shoulders covered in public. But from our point of view, Oman is absolutely suitable for exploring the country alone as a woman. The Omanis are curious but by no means intrusive.

Can you drive alone in the desert? Our answer: yes. But you should pay attention to a few things: A convoy of at least 2 vehicles is recommended. Take plenty of water with you in case something happens. Have maps and an analogue compass with you. It is best to let someone know that you are driving through the desert so that help can be called if you do not report. Let experienced drivers explain to you which routes are suitable. Be sure to have the tire pressure lowered at a gas station before entering the desert. You should have a shovel and ideally sand sheets and a tow rope with you. We didn’t go into the desert alone. After our mini off-road desert adventure in the Wahiba Sand Desert, where an experienced driver drove in front of us, it was too unsafe for us to drive through a desert all by ourselves. Experienced 4×4 travelers may be able to complete this challenge better or with less fear. TIP: In Oman, the book “Offroad-OMAN” is available in bookstores and souvenir shops. There you will find numerous off-road routes with GPS data etc. The book was very helpful to us personally.

German Post for Cleo & Nico

If you would like to plan you Oman roundtrip with us please contact us

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